Photo Credit: wildpixel

The following is a summary of “Skincare Ingredients Recommended by Cosmetic Dermatologists: A Delphi Consensus Study,” published in the April 2025 issue of Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology by Alvarez et al. 

Ambiguity existed regarding the preferred topical cosmetic ingredients for addressing common skin complaints.  

Researchers conducted a retrospective study to identify the topical ingredients frequently recommended by cosmetic dermatologists for fine lines, wrinkles, acne, redness, dark spots, large pores, dry skin, and oily skin.  

They performed a literature review to create an extensive list of ingredients, which was then narrowed down by an expert panel to the most significant ingredients, 2 rounds of Delphi consensus surveys were carried out with a second expert panel consisting of clinicians and educators. A comparative literature review was done to summarize the published evidence supporting each consensus ingredient.  

The results showed that a panel of 17 dermatologists reduced a list of 318 ingredients to 83 and 2 rounds of Delphi surveys involved 62 dermatologists from 43 centers. Consensus was reached for 23 ingredients, including azelaic acid (acne, dark spots), benzoyl peroxide (acne, oily skin), glycolic acid (acne, dark spots), mineral sunscreen (fine lines and wrinkles, redness), niacinamide (redness, dark spots), retinoids (fine lines and wrinkles, acne, dark spots, large pores, oily skin), salicylic acid (acne, oily skin), and vitamin C (fine lines and wrinkles, dark spots). Most consensus ingredients were supported by level 1b or 2b evidence.  

Investigators concluded that consensus existed among expert cosmetic dermatologists regarding the ingredients most useful for common dermatologic concerns. 

Source: jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(25)00612-7/abstract